A marker at the entrance of the Treblinka extermination camp Photo by Hannah Gardenswartz |
The
oppressive uniformity of the grey sky could not possibly prepare me for today’s
discussions. When talking about a death
camp and the cold-blooded eradication of an entire ethnic/religious group,
there is no possible preparation. After
spending a few hours at Treblinka, I do not think I can fully process the
experience. How do you totally understand mass killings and the systematic
meticulous horrors that were created here?
If I have never been hungry, a basic form of human suffering, how can I
understand the higher methodological and mechanized devastation of the death
camps? By the end of the day, I felt
much like the mornings sky, completely drained of color and emotion.
The day stated with a short documentary on the life of Jews in Warsaw shown
at the Museum of the History of Polish Jews, which started a highly emotional
day for the HIA Fellows. Before heading
to Treblinka, I was hoping to use reason detached from emotion to understand
what Treblinka means, but the film clearly emphasized how emotional the visit
would inevitably be. Despite
overly-dramatized special effects, the movie was able to use facts and old
photographs to create a tiny slice of reality. Before the War, in the 1920s and 1930s, the
life of Jews in Warsaw was colorful and dynamic, but after 1939, the black and
white photographs seemed all too accurate.
As the Nazis methodically killed Jews, the grim reality of the Jewish
people seems best described only in shades of grey.
Once we got on the bus to Treblinka, I kept thinking about how strange
it was to be embarking on this trip while life continued in Warsaw. While riding the bus, we passed by Umschlagplatz, where deportations from
Warsaw happened. So many places represented where Jews were killed. Today, there are offices and people running
businesses. One thing we learned was that following all genocides, there is
denial. Because the entire Ghetto was razed to the ground, the memory of many
parts of this history does not exist. However,
one cannot live a life by surrendering to the horrors of the past. There has to be movement forward.
"Never Again" marker stone at the Treblinka remembrance site Photo by Hannah Gardenswartz |
After
completing their task, the Nazis had carefully and fully disassembled the camp
and placed a farm building on it, eradicating any mark of Treblinka. In the 1960’s, the monument that stands today
was created. The irregular grey stones
could either be solid plumes of ash or the hardened tears that we have not been
allowed to cry. And, for me, it was so
hard to see the pain and suffering, because juxtaposed with the concrete centerpiece
and the irregular granite rocks is the picturesque Polish countryside. There is nothing to tell you that 900,000
Jews, people, were murdered systematically, and their remains burned and hidden
as organic ash, found only by geological surveys. Jews were turned into the fertile soil that
has allowed the forest to grow. Perhaps
this is why I like the simplicity of the monument, because it allowed me to project
my own meaning onto the grey.
The remembrance site at Treblinka Photo by Hannah Gardenswartz |
We can never know for sure who (or even how many) died at the site, but
there is an impersonal aspect of the individual murders. The impersonal aspect of the site robs people
of their individual humanity, and even in death, even in memorial for their
lack of humane death. Our guide, Tomaz
Cebulski, was a brilliant historian who spent the day walking around and giving
us an in-depth explanation of what we were seeing and creating a framework for
what we were feeling. He said that what
happened here was not necessarily “inhumane” because it was committed by
humans. If we are going to remember the
individual names for the perpetrators, it seems almost disrespectful to not
acknowledge the individual victims.
I am
a little frightened by the conclusions I have drawn. Perhaps this fear stems from my confusion, as
my way of noting my lack of context.
After all, this monument was not made for me. It was made as a place of mourning and
closure for the survivors and families of the victims. How can I remember as someone who was never
there? I can learn and grieve and
respect, but I cannot remember. I feel a
need to know why. That is what is
challenging. I feel a need for a why,
but I have to simply accept that for now, I do not fully understand.
A Jewish gravestone Photo by Hannah Gardenswartz |
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